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Traditional Paithani saris maintaining its golden legacy
by Abdul Hadi
Aurangabad
(Maharashtra): Traditional Paithani saris that were
once patronized by the royalty, have continued to maintain
its charm among the women in contemporary India. Paithani
saris are today a prized possession and have survived
the test of time. It is said that the erstwhile Maratha
rulers of Maharashtra had a special preference for Paithani
textiles and patronized them. The traditional Paithani
saris have continued to attract women by its distinct
appeal even in cotemporary times. The golden embroidered
saris with their intricate designs and appealing woven
borders narrate the heritage through their design and
colours that are native to Maharashtra. The specialty
of a Paithani sari lies in its border and Pallu (rear
end of the sari). Earlier, just two or three colours were
popular which were integrated in the sari in the Dhup-Chaon
(light and shade) pattern. But now with changing times,
new and attractive colours are freely used. Paithani's
main attraction is the use of gold thread, which has been
in use for ages. But today silver is also substituted
for gold, thus making these saris affordable to many people.
Paithani sari is entirely hand woven and depending on
the intricacy of the design, it takes anything from two
months to two years to weave a single sari. The traditional
Paithani used to be a plain sari with a heavy embroidery
(golden thread) border and ornately decorated Pallu. But,
today, motifs like stars, circles, peacocks, flowers and
paisleys are used to make the Paithanis more beguiling
than they have been. These saris derive its name from
the place of origin, Paithan. Today, the demand for these
saris is very high in India and abroad. "Mostly women
work in this sector and make traditional Paithani saris
in pure silk and zari. It may take two months to two year
prepare a single sari. The cost ranges from rupees 15,000
to 150,000 rupees. If gold thread is used, the cost can
go up to 600,000 rupees for a Paithani sari," said Rakshe
Gajanan, a sari distributor. "The demand for these saris
is good in India and also people from countries like America,
Paris, Canada, UAE, Nepal, take them for individual purposes.
Also the demand for the borders is high and we make them
also," Gajanan added. Paithani weaving is a flourishing
industry employing mostly women. "I've been working here
for past seven years and the weaving of these saris is
very hard. It is a very intricate work involving minute
detailing and puts a great stress on the eyes. And the
money we earn from this really helps us a lot in meeting
our expenses," said Rekha Dhawle, a weaver. Despite being
a little expensive than normal saris, the Paithani sari
have been a popular choice in wedding ceremonies in the
country. Besides Paithan, these saris are also woven in
Yeola, Pune, Nasik, Malegaon in Maharashtra.
-Dec
19, 2008
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