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Ardh Kumbh mela: All attention on Naga sadhus
by Virendra Pathak

          Allahabad: Millions of Hindus have congregated in Allahabad to participate in the Ardh Kumbh Mela. Ardh Kumbh Mela, as the term denotes, is held after every six years. The Naga sadhus are drawing the maximum attention of pilgrims, including foreign tourists, attending the 42-day fair. In the very first two days, Naga Sadhus' extraordinary rituals and life-style have aroused interest of a large number of visitors including tourists arriving here from different parts of the country and world. Ignoring the cold wave gripping northern India, Sadhus (hermits) at the Ardh Kumbh Mela are able to withstand temperature with mercury dipping to single digit. These hermits, who are the cynosure of all eyes and arousing lot of curiosity, are known as "Naga Sadhus" or "Naga Babas". The move around stark naked in their unkempt knotty long hair but keep their bodies smeared with vibhuti (ash). Their abodes, whether they are in transit like at the ongoing Ardh Kumbh Mela or the permanent hermitage known as Akhadas, are called Akhada in local parlance. Thus the hermits putting up in these Akhadas are known as Akhada Sadhus. These Akhada Sadhus, known for their unworldly ways like moving around unclad, weird long hair tied over the head and above all practicing or performing activities and rituals in the most unconventional manner, enjoy life in their own style. It is these unusual traits and acts that draw anyone's attention passing them from nearby.

         On Wednesday (Jan.3) one such spectacular event attracted huge crowd as it included a performance of various Yogasanas by Naga Baba Toofangiri astride a horse. "We came to pray to Mother Ganga and I have brought my horse along with me. The only difference between him (the horse) and me is that I can talk and he cannot. He also came here to perform Sashtang Dandthvad (a form of Yogic Asana in which the entire body prostrates) in Allahabad on the occasion of Ardh Kumbh," said Naga Baba Toofangiri. Life at an Akhada is a sharp contrast of colour and austerities. A walk into one of the Akhada revealed a Sadhu wearing 11,000 Rudraksha beads. He says he has come way from the mountains, and claims to survive on herbs. "I am wearing 11,000 Rudrakshas (beads of a particular plant) and I also have Gangaji (River Ganga), Naag (the serpent king), Tripun (trident) and Chandra (the moon). A person who wears 11,000 Rudrakshas is believed to attain Lord Shankara's form," claimed Naga Baba Vishwanathgiri. A few lucky ones can also find some Sadhus performing Asanas (the yogic postures) while hanging from the branch of a tree. Another amazing sight at the Akhada is the indulgence of a good number of Naga Sadhus in smoking Chilum (known as pot among drug addicts) of bhang and the narcotic marijuana apart from most unusual forms of rituals. All these they contend are the routes to attain Nirvana and realise the apex of spirituality! Thus the pilgrims and tourists have their share of startling thrills at the Akharas of Naga Babas during the month-long Ardh Kumbh Mela at Allahabad.

         As for the Ardh Kumbh Mela, it is a congregation of millions of Hindus once in six years. It draws Hindus not only from different parts of India but also from distant countries. Besides, thousands of tourists also make it to the Mela to experience a different India, perhaps unseen anywhere else in the country. This city of Prayag (the old name for Allahabad) has the unique distinction of being right at the centre of the earth, and the Sunrays falling directly on the spot during the period generate unique minerals in the water at the holy 'Sangam' (the place where Ganga, Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati meet). Much relevance is attached to the period when the Earth's revolution around the Sun changes around mid-January that is observed as Makar Sankranti by Hindus. A dip during this period at the holy Sangam, is widely believed as a sure way to cleanse oneself of all sins. Some theologists with a scientific bent of mind attribute the dip at Sangam during Sankranti as beneficial due to the sunrays penetrating the water at a time when the planetary movements experience a shift. Ardh Kumbh falls mid-way of the 12-yearly Maha Kumbh Mela that draws even bigger crowds.
- January 5, 2007

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