Review: Phoolwalon-ki-Sair, A Festival of Communal Harmony

Phoolwalon-ki-Sair - A Celebration of Brotherhood
(October, 2002)

Dargah of Sufi saint Qutabuddin Khwaja Bakhtiar 'Kaki' at Mehrauli in South Delhi

A unique festival held every year in the Capital of India is Phoolwalon-ki-Sair or the Sair-e-Gulafroshan (pilgrimage of the flower people). Started in the last phase of the Mughal period, it came to symbolise the composite culture of the country and therefore the British banned it. Revived in the early sixties, today this three-day festival is organised by a non-Government organisation.

This year the festival was heralded with a 'shahnai' recital at the residence of Lt.-Governor Vijay Kapoor. Organisers presented to him an ornamental 'pankha', a large colourful hand-swung fan. The embroidered patterns on the fan conveyed the message of communal harmony.

Mrs & Mr Kapoor placed a traditional 'chaadar' at the shrine (dargah) of Qutabuddin Khwaja Bakhtiar Kaki, a sufi saint, at Mehrauli in South Delhi, followed by a floral offering at the Yogmaya temple, nearby. (It is said Delhi was once upon a time known as Yoginipura, after this temple). The festival concluded on October 5 with over 12 states from Tamil Nadu to Himachal Pradesh and Jammu & Kashmir participating in it by sending two 'pankhas' each along with traditional dancers and other artistes who performed in the evening.

The Jahaz Mahal built by the Lodhis, at one end of the Mehrauli bazaar, and the ground between the Mahal and Aulia Masjid, on the banks of Zamsit talaab (pond), were decorated with carpets and chandeliers. Qawalis held throughout the night on October 5 in the ground were the main attraction of the three-day festival this year, as usual. An old woman complained that the VIP patronage in the form of gifts to the pankhewallahs has been given up in recent years. In the background of communal strife at various places, this year the festival itself was also held at low key.

The festival combines Hindu and Islamic religious sentiments in celebration of an old incident, which occurred during the last days of the Mughal rule. A Mughal prince, Mirza Jahangir, the last emperor's brother, was interned at the Allahabad fort after he humiliated a British officer. His grieving mother Mumtaz Mahal then took a vow that if her son was allowed to return to Delhi, she would make an offering of a flowerbed at the holy shrine of Khwaja Bakhtiyar Kaki at Mehrauli. So did she.

On his release, she conducted a thanksgiving ceremony on behalf of herself and the people. To fulfil her vow, a beautiful flower canopy was created and the flower-sellers joined in with 'flower pankhas'. All these were ceremoniously taken in a procession to the tomb. Hindus and Muslims in thousands visited the dargarh and the Yogmaya temple nearby to make offerings.

But, the British, alleging that Mirza Jahangir, said to be an alcoholic, did not change his ways, again exiled him and he died in Allahabad shortly thereafter.

However, the pilgrimage of the court and the people of Delhi to Mehrauli became an annual event. During the Mughal period, even the entire court used to move to Mehrauli several days in advance. Worried by this living show of people's unity irrespective of their religions, the British rulers later banned it. The festival was revived in the early sixties by the then Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru and became popular at once.

The organisers attempt to recreate the ambience of the Mughal period to give the people an idea of the original glory of the festival.