Next Yatra time is just a few months away. One has to prepare in advance for the pilgrimage. To start with, go in for a primary but thorough medical check-up. This will make you sure of your physical and mental fitness to undertake trekking along harduous routes up to a height of 14,000 plus feet. A formal medical certificate will have to be obtained just before the yatra for the purpose of registration.

The Legends. What is there in Amarnath Cave?

It's a Shiva linga. Shiva is one of the holy Trinity of the Indian mythology. And linga? Well, that is the phallic symbol of Shiva. Shiva lingas are a common sight everywhere and worshipped in every nook and corner of India. Then what is so special about the one in Amarnath? Here it is a natural formation of snow seen only during July-August every year. And it waxes and wanes with the moon. There is not just one. There are two more ice stalagmite, close to the main one. These represent Parvathi, Shiva's consort and their son, Ganesha. According to one legend, Shiva disclosed the secret of creation to Parvathi in a cave at this place. And that was overheard by a pair of doves. Once the secret was known, they could be reborn and reborn. The doves can therefore be sighted at the cave today.

Another story is that the cave and the lingam were discovered when Kashyap rishi drained the Kashmir valley, which was a lake at that time, of all waters. A third one has a little historical anecdote underlying it. It is that once upon a time a sadhu gave Buta Malik, a Muslim shepherd, a bag of coal which on his reaching home turned gold. The spot where the bag got changed hands became a pilgrim centre. A part of the donations received at the temple is given to the descendants of Malik Saab every year even today.

The Two Routes:

One route is via Pahalgam and the other via Baltal. From Pahalgam, Amarnath is 46 km. Up to Chandanwari transport is available. That is 16 km from Pahalgam. The first night can be spent at Pahalgam or Chandanwari. The trek starts from Chandanwari, ie 30 km to the cave. It takes two days with night halts at Sheshnag (Wawjan) and Panchtarni. The trip to Sheshnag is along Lidder. From Sheshnag one can see the Sheshnag lake and the glaciers are just beyond. Sheshnag got its name from its seven peaks which resemble the mythical snake. The halt here will help one learn more about Sheshnag and the legends associated with it. The next 12 km goes up across Mohagunas pass and then down to Panchtarni. After night halt it is only 6 km. If one starts early in the morning from Panchtarni, one can be ahead in the queue, have darshan of the linga early and return to Panchtarni by noon. One can expect only a fleeting darshan as there is tremendous rush. There are bhajans, priests, pujas and aartis. If one resumes return journey from Panchtarni immediately, the first night can be spent at Sheshnag.

The other route is from Sonamarg via Baltal. Sonamarg is 85 km on Srinagar-Leh route. Baltal base camp is 15 km down Sonamarg. It is a valley down Zojila pass. From here it takes just one day to reach the cave. Domail is a point 2 km away. From this point trekking has to be careful, as the route is steep. At Sangam top the Baltal route and the Pahalgam route join up. The holy cave is quite close. Up to Baltal there is transport and from Baltal ponies, dandies, porters etc are available on Government rates. Assistance is available at the tourist office. The War Clouded '99 Yatra This time, the pilgrims' vehicles had police escort from Jammu in view of the conflagration at the border and a spurt in militancy. There were doubts in the beginning but the traffic picked up gradually. As the rush started, pilgrims had to wait a few days for their turn to join the yatra. Serpentine queues were seen for last-minute registration, especially as unscrupulous travel agents misled the hopeful yatris on registration requirements and overbooked trips to Jammu for a fast buck. Funds were also collected in different parts of the country by instant organisations.

The Jammu and Kashmir Government regulated the flow of yatris to the holy cave at the rate of 2500 pilgrims per day. It had set up rented accommodations along the route and provided beds and blankets at reasonable rates. The regulations follow a calamity that befell yatris a few years ago. Hundreds of people died in rain and avalanches. Lakhs used to rush for the cave but now the regulated figure is 75,000 per season. The rush used to be especially uncontrollable during the auspicious Poornima day. This year the yatra began by the end of July and ended on August 26 with the arrival of the Chhari Mubarak, the holy mace of Lord Shiva, at the cave. By this time 1.07 lakh pilgrims from various parts of the country had paid their obeisance.

Registration had begun a month in advance. Initially the response was dull due to the border war with Pakistan, but the pilgrimage picked up and then trekking went on smoothly except for the usual minor mishaps of landslides and road accidents. The Baltal route via Sonamarg was also opened but pilgrims preferred the traditional route.

The yatra was by and large a disappointment this year for another reason. The lingam did not assume its size and shape! It was not visible for most part of the season. Probably, it would have been melting away in high temperature. The snowfall was also very low. Best of luck for next time!

by A Roving Correspondent

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